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Yes, cranberry sauce is a given. You probably make a homemade version to accompany its canned brethren in order to appease the most strident of canned-sauce believers. But often homemade cranberry sauce recipes include a cascade of spices, fruit, and nuts to distract from the fact that the sauce is simply a frozen bag of bouncy fruits cooked up with far too much sugar. In Thanksgiving: How to Cook it Well, Sam Sifton offers a straight-forward, yet well-balanced Basic Cranberry Sauce to counter all of those overwrought bowls of relish.


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