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Before last week, I had never made real fried chicken. Between the perceived mess and my worry of serving burnt-but-still-raw chicken, I knew I'd need a commanding voice to guide me through my fears and persuade me to give it a shot. The buttermilk skillet-fried chicken recipe in Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart's Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking offered just the direction I was looking for.


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