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Before picking up Ellen Brown's Mac & Cheese, I assumed all fried macaroni and cheese must be breaded and deep-fried a la Paula Deen. But the Skillet-Fried Cheddar Mac and Cheese, adapted from Zingerman's Roadhouse in Ann Arbor, is a far more delicate affair. The sauce is made exclusively with raw-milk cheddar, and the final fry is in a tablespoon, rather than a couple quarts, of oil. This step exists for the sole purpose of creating large crispy pieces of cheese akin to Italian frico.


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