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Unless you've eaten garlic soup, it can be challenging to imagine how a huge handful of sliced cloves simmered in water for fifteen minutes could possibly be worth writing about. I certainly questioned the idea before making David Tanis's version in his new cookbook, One Good Dish. But those fifteen minutes on the stove are transformational—the garlic mellows and sweetens, infusing the water with profound savoriness. A little salt, olive oil, and sage don't hurt either.


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